Man are my legs tired...
Okay, I probably should have posted this BEFORE this weekend, but I just got back from a 3 day trip to Yosemite National Park (YNP). If you've never gotten a chance to visit or better yet, stay in, Yosemite, then you are missing out on one of the most spectacular places on earth. And while I personally find it fascinating, I will spare you the geological background. Although you can follow the link above for volumes of info.
To be honest, I haven't been backpacking or hiking in two years. The last time I went, I was completely unprepared from a gear standpoint. On that trip, my friend, an avid hiker/backpacker, was the true incarnation of Joe Mountain. An external frame pack loaded with ultra light gear, inflatable sleeping mat, and a host of other nifty, only-good-above-10,000-feet doo-dads that make life easy were atop a tan muscled, very prepared hiker wearing appropriate foot-gear.
I on the other hand looked like an 1800s Chinese peddler attempting to sell my cheap heavy wares at a local cattle auction. My less than adequate sneakers carried a lanky, ex-farmboy with a stuffed bookbag dangling a very heavy Wal-Mart tent and monstrous sleeping bag. Both items precariously swinging from small straps with every step. [I know there is a picture of this somewhere in Joe Mountain's archives. I must dig this up!]
Well, needless to say, I was far more prepared this trip. Proper backpacking pack, sleeping bag and matt, layered clothing and last but definitely not least, a swanky new pair of backpacking boots and synthetic hiking socks. I was finally ready for an awesome outdoor experience.
It's a 4-5 hour drive from San Francisco, depending on traffic. Matthew and I started out Friday at noon and it wasn't until we got to the park entrance that we realized that our camping spot was already full. We had obtained a wilderness permit (which allows persons to hike up into designated areas per the permit) or at least we had the permit reservation, we were hoping to be able to camp in the backpacker section of Tuolomne (too-ah-lo-mee) Meadows campground. This area is reserved for those who will be packing out the next day, i.e., no RVs.
NOTE: Again, for those unfamiliar with U.S. National Parks protocol, you need a camping permit, or in this case, a wilderness permit, in order to camp. Otherwise, you are fined and booted out of the park.
Now, bear in mind, we arrived at the entrance to the park aroun 6:00pm. The campground area where we were staying was already listed as full. Luckily, the backpacker section isn't monitored as closely so the kind ranger lady told us to go ahead and hopefully we could find a spot to pitch our tent. (LOL.. Get your minds out of the gutter! I just used that phrase in proper context.)
Now bear in mind, YNP is huge. From the west entrance it is 55 miles to where we were camping. The two-lane mountain road snakes up and around the Yosemite Valley proper up into the back country towards Nevada. So while we had made it to the park, we were still a long way from where we wanted to be, and now we weren't 100% sure we'd be able actually stay there once we arrived. Not to worry, however. Matthew was quite optimistic and we travelled on.
We arrived in Tuolomne Meadows around 7:30 and were quite fortunate to run into a cute forest ranger. Well, I thought he was cute. Matthew just thought I was crazy. The ranger didn't have any problem with us squeezing into a spot in the backpackers section. Matthew and I breathed a collective sigh of relief and went about making camp. [Right: The view of Tuolomne Meadows from the top of Lambert Dome. The campsite where we stayed Friday night is in the far left of the pic.]
The tent went up, the sleeping bags came out, and Matthew (who spent 4 years in Zimbabwe with the Peace Corps) started cooking dinner. It was a beautiful night, with clear bright stars, clear mountain air, and a temperature that would make a polar bear shiver. Okay, it really wasn't that cold. And being from San Francisco, I don't think it was much different than most summer nights. However, the lack of civilization seemed to exacerbate the cold.
Dinner was quite good, and we tucked in early. Matthew's 2-person tent seemed quite roomy. At least until I actually layed down in it. Once I figured out that I needed to put my feet in one corner and my head in the other, however, it was relatively comfy.
We broke camp the next morning after a bit of breakfast and coffee. Yes B, I actually had coffee. Black, hot and bitter it felt good in the chill of the morning. With the tent and gear all stowed in our bags we headed off to obtain the permit and start our hike.
The trail we had planned for, and the trail which our permit gave us rights to, was Glen Aulin. Now, the actual campsite at Glen Aulin was already full, so we knew we were going to have to camp somewhere out in the wilderness. Okay, duh, that's why we went right?
So off we go.
4.43253423 miles later we cross the Tuolumne River at a place called Twin Bridges and found a spot to camp (they're aren't any campsites in the wilderness). The rest of the day involved:
Mostly in that order, although the skinny dipping happened twice. ;-) Not only was Matthew just as willing as I to strip, he was also the first one in the water! Water which was seriously 'nad shrinking cold.
- Day hiking
- Naked sunbathing
- Skinnydipping
- Dinner
- Quiet evening by the fire with an interesting book
Mostly in that order, although the skinny dipping happened twice. ;-) Not only was Matthew just as willing as I to strip, he was also the first one in the water! Water which was seriously 'nad shrinking cold.
And in true Aussielicious fashion, I would be remiss if I didn't have naked photos, but alas, they aren't on my camera so we'll have to post and write about those another day. (Hang on B! They're a comin'!)
This morning, much like yesterday, we got up, broke camp and headed back down to the meadows. We were planning on a nice breakfast at the Lodge, however we arrived just after they stopped serving. Tuolomne Lodge, the location of the breakfast, had conjured up visions of a large rustic cabin lodge, with fireplaces and chairs that beckoned weary travellers with hot cocoa and spiced cider.
Um.. no. "Hello, Mr. Steele? I'm afraid your reality check bounced."
It was more like a large summer camp cafeteria with the smells of butter and burn toast keeping the bears away. Okay, so maybe I'm being a bit harsh, after all I never actually saw the food. But I did actually enter the "lodge." So I'm not totally off base with my description.
We ended up heading back down to the greasy spoon cafe next to our campsite. And after a couple of days of wildnerness dining, my biscuit sandwich with egg, sausage and cheese was a small piece of heaven. Matthew's wam cinnamon roll and cappucino was calling my name too. We decided to head out of the park and eat a healthy mountain man lunch.
We targetted the small town of Mariposa, CA as our lunch stop. I know Matthew was hoping to find some small lunch place that could actually feed me so I wouldn't eye his food anymore. (j/k M) We found lunch nirvana, and it's name was Happy Burger. Boasting the largest menu in the Sierras, this little burger joint was just what the doctor ordered. The menu actually was rather large, offering copious varieties of hamburger, sandwich and breakfast items. The place was definitely popular and we found a great little booth in the back. The walls and ceiling were covered with the cover sleeves of 45rpm records of artists from Elvis to Eydie Gorme.
It wasn't long before we were flagging down our server as he walked around hawking our plate of food to the other side of the restaurant. Matthew, with his deliciously carb conscious chicken club, could only stare at me woofing down the "Mother Lode", a burger stacked with 3 patties, 4 strips of bacon and 2 slices of cheese with a side of curly fries. Yes, keeping me fed requires the economy of a small developing country. Eventually Matthew caved and savored a couple of juicy meaty bites himself.
After satiating ourselves, we headed back into SF, got cleaned up and back in our respective domiciles. I'm seriously considering not hitting the indoor cycling training tomorrow. I've just spent two days carrying around a 34-pound pack and, while Matthew's hands can work magic, my legs are feeling a bit abused.
P.S. Who's Matthew?? I'm sure you'll find out soon enough!
2 Comments:
Sounds like a great weekend, but yeah, who is Matthew?
I was in Yosemite with my younger sister in June. It was my first visit and I enjoyed it tremendously. I can't wait to go back with a male companion, like you did, and explore some of the trails and remote campgrounds.
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